Xi'an to Shanghai

My final morning is Xi'an began with a high energy phone call from Ernesto. The call was welcome, but the ring was a little jarring. I had woken up at 5.30 and was unable to go back to sleep so I was ready for a change. He asked if anyone was interested in seeing the mosque. We met up about 40 minutes later and off we went.

We walked through side streets and wound up where we had been the night before. I remembered it from the streets, the vendors, and sadly the litter. We were tempted to stop for street food, but wanted to get there. It was a nice day, a little overcast but not raining and a little warm. We paid the entry fee into the mosque and spent some time enjoying the surroundings. There were trees and birds singing. Bees pollinated fragrant jasmine. Few visitors interrupted the serenity.

The mosque was founded in 725 AD. It was pretty incredible to see the marriage of Chinese architecture and Islamic characters. Symbols of good luck, turtles shaped of stone held up structures and provided resting places for weary feet. The prayer hall was cordoned off, but one could look in to see mats lined up one after another; the schedule hung by the door. It was peaceful. It was unlike anything I had seen before. And in the middle of that bustling city, I couldn't hear a car horn or a raised voice, just leaves rustling now and again.

We left there and steps away we found a flea market. Mont Blanc pens, North Face backpacks and Louis Vuitton bags were being offered at rock bottom prices. We didn't spend much time there, and instead made our way back to the hotel. We meandered, letting our noses guide us, and they didn't disappoint. We found some sticky buns filled with your choice of pork, potato, or greens. Ernesto also bought a pancake stuffed with egg, bacon and veggies--a Chinese breakfast gyro!--for us to share.

David came back for us promptly at 11.30 to whisk us to the airport. Once there, Ernie and Jeff said their goodbyes. Jeff was joining us in Shanghai for a few days before his vacation comes to an end.

By the time we boarded the plane I was ready to pass out, and did so promptly. I wasn't asleep long--according to Kendra--and however long it had been was long enough to get my energy back up. Before I knew it, we were ready for the descent into Shanghai. (I am so happy this is my last plane ride until the one that takes me home!)

Shanghai is China's New York. It's built on a river, and its population is about 16 million. Marlene had found us a place using Airbnb in the French Concession, a charming part of town, with tree-lined streets, small shops and boutiques, and low buildings. We met the owner. We are the first tenants, as they just finished building the apartment. We got our stuff settled (Kendra and I fully unpacked as we are here for a few days), and we took off for our next adventure!

We left the apartment and nearby found a Russian Orthodox Church (worth at least a mention as it was Holy Wednesday). It was closed, so I could only assume the Holy Unction service, my favorite of the year, was earlier in the day. We were in search for food, and Marlene had a place in mind. After declining a couple of offers of “Hasheesh?” we found the place. And it was closed due to the holiday. Curses, National Holiday! So Marlene took a moment and—as the GPS says—“recalculated our route” and off we went. We landed at a hipster noodle bar with a mix of locals and Westerners. My beverages (400 ml of Kirin and 250 ml of water) actually cost more than my food, roast pork rice. The price of food here is crazy low. We took off from there and headed for the Bund, which is the central part of town. It was a zoo of people. We came up from the subway and found ourselves in a pedestrian only version of Times Square. We headed for the promenade along the river, which meant battling our way through the crowd.

It was a sight to see. I can’t describe how massive it is. The buildings are enormous, and because of the river, there are actually vantage points from which to see them (unlike parts of New York where all you can do is look straight up). At the top of the tallest building that is still currently under construction, Shanghai Tower, Marlene spotted the lights from welders. It was just so massive. I was completely awestruck by what I saw around me. We took the Bund Tunnel tour to the other side (that was an experience) and were able to gaze at the city from a different vantage point. It was still awe inspiring.

We went home, after missing the last train, and having to take another one. We walked a bit father than we anticipated, but it sure was worth it.What a day!

More to come...