New Acropolis Museum

Live restoration work below your feet is just the beginning of this fantastic place. More to come!!

Our Local Favorite

"Never trust a skinny chef" couldn't be truer at one of my favorite cafeterias here, where I think Mom and I are now familiar faces. When I showed up for lunch, the chef asked if it was for here or to go. I told him I'd be eating in. He told me I'd have to wait, as fresh calamarakia were on their way. I told him I do whatever he says. And if you met the man, you would too.

They were hot. They were crunchy on the outside and chewy in the inside. They were delicious.

Shhh!

The moment is rare where neither of these two is talking, so it's worthy of a photo. For those of you who don't have an enormous lunch at 2 followed by a sound sleep, I recommend it.

8 Lambs A-Roastin'...

This is my second time where I've come from Paris directly to Komnina. Locals here tell me I've come from the Big City of Lights to the Little One. No matter the differences (let's start with the fact that I can't get lost in this one I can't get lost, and I've tried...), this village has LAMB.

Cousin Dimitris pictured above was in charge of spit-mounting and kokoretsi making. I literally watched a near-sausage equivalent being made, and I'm currently on the testing phase of how this may effect consumption.

This alone was worth the price of admission to come here. And given all the others who are here, the love we share and the fun we have make it all the more special.

More to come...

Au Revoir, Paris

Marlene arrived today. It was spectacular to have welcomed my friend to a place so dear to her (she lived here as a student for a bit). We wandered around the city together, gabbed, snapped photos, and enjoyed a fabulous dinner. Thanks to her, we got Velibe Bikes, rentals available anywhere in the city. From St Germaine des Pres we crossed into the 7th and made the Champs du Mars (how appropriate) in time for the Eiffel Tower Light Show! Light Show!! We rode along the Seine, down the Champs Élysées, around the Louvre, near some of the great landmarks in the City of Light at night. We had so much FUN!! What a way to end this special time here. It was Mar!velous.

A New Day

I am not a morning person. Yet, one of the things I really like about traveling is being out early in the day to watch the city wake up. It's feeling the morning sun splash on my face as it begins to rise above buildings. That same sunshine pours into windows being dressed to entice today's passers-by, like in the bakery pictured above. It's the hum coming from the delivery trucks making their way through and around traffic to supply the day's goods. To my Greek ear, the absence of honking is conspicuous. People wish each other well for the day. And here--especially here--it's the smell of fresh baked croissants, tartes tatin, eclairs, madeleines...the list goes on. And for me, it's gingerly clutching a freshly baked baguette still a little warm from the oven. To protect its bulbous ends from morning commuters and street-sweepers, I keep a firm hold on its slender middle, trying not to crack its crunchy and flaky exterior.

Smiling, I make my way through the alleys, the narrow streets, the bikes and mopeds. While bright red geraniums reach out from their iron-protected balcony boxes above, I dart around the rivers of water that stream along the curbs below. I delight in this ritual.

I stop to look around. One by one from their tall stacks, tables and chairs are being set for the day. Steel gates are slowly disappearing to show their colorful storefronts. I peer over my other shoulder. An eyebrow rises. Each street ends with another building redirecting it to wind in a new direction, encouraging exploration. What else is there to see, hear, smell nearby? My grin expresses my satisfaction, my curiosity takes hold, and off I go.

More to come...

Arc! de Triomphe

Though this is "Top Secret!," I'm also on the lookout for Du Quois, Latrine, Chocolate Mousse and Deja Vu (though we have not met before).

I love the French. Ernie has so wisely pointed put that France behaves like a Northern European country. They don't even honk here!! My second coffee today was at a cafe, where I sat next to a table of Greeks. Oh to hear that language out of context! Fortunately for me, I know a little German, too; he's sitting right over there.

Bonjour Maman!

I realized today that I have the technology to take self portraits, and by that I mean a camera and an extended arm. I took this while at Luxembourg Gardens. The Senate is the building behind me.

Ernie's here! But he was sleeping so I decided not to take a photo of him. Kind if wish I had the Chen sleeping gene... Can't wait for Mars to come!

Big ups to Kelli and Kevin for tying the knot yesterday. Congratulations!!!!

Incroyable!!!

Overcast and still spectacular.

Misnomer

This street is neither as long or as populated as one would hope.

Don't Be a Stranger!

Ok that was terrible.

An August Setting

Today, I enjoyed visiting one my very favorite places in the world, Musée Rodin.

With no intent to visit the museum proper, I spent a couple of hours in the gardens, writing, wandering and wondering. I snapped some pics of statues for which I already have photos from previous trips. No matter. I was seeing it in new light today. I remember my first visit to it, the majority of its grounds covered to protect it from winter. Today, I saw bees darting from one flower to the next. I could smell the fragrance of the plants in bloom. I could watch ducks swim in its pond. I am so happy that I simply got a chance to be there, to enjoy it, to relish the time spent there today.

Please take my advice: think of a place you love and go there. Your relaxed body and rejuvenated soul will thank you for it!!

Curb Appeal

In old cities, one of the things I love the most to look at is its doorways. I am really trying hard not stop every few meters to snap a photo. It was hard today as I walked through the 7th and parts of the 6th and 5th. This door, if memory serves, is on or near Rue du Cherche Midi, just above Blvd Montparnasse. I have seen so many such passageways and I'm intrigued by each one.

I have learned that here in France the exteriors are rather simple, so that when one is invited into the interior, one is wowed. Which makes me wonder: what the heck is happening on the other side of that door?!

French Laundry

Not the kind you Seattlites might think of. But this is how I passed the time while I did do laundry, which was an interesting process, given it's 100% automated and all directions are en Francais, and made moreso by the older lady who was asking me questions about what to do. Oh dear.

Pro or Antipasti?

A fancy lunch (top of Pompidou, with a view!) paves the way for a simple but delicious dinner. Antipasti includes a trio of cheeses ( good, better and best), Moroccan olives from the local market, and strawberries red all the way through). Yay for life's little pleasures!!

A Very Timely Reminder

This morning I awoke a little earlier than normal to make time to watch the annual Paris Marathon. It really is an amazing sight to witness a sea of people run by for about 45 minutes straight. Marching bands of all kinds dotted the course to cheer on the participants (including some para-athletes!). Other spectators flooded their terraces, sipping morning coffee. Children cheered. There were several teams of people who were carrying others unable to run; members of such teams rotated in and out while continuing to run. I even saw two people, at the very end as the mass petered out, pushing a loved one in a wheelchair. In relation to the course, the point of my overlook was somewhere between the 3km and 4km mark; so those folks had another 38km or so to go... Amazing what the human spirit does.

As I have written, I wasn't sure what had brought me here, other than the voice inside firmly and constantly saying, "Go." And now that I am about halfway through the time I plan on spending here, I can tell you that I could not be anywhere else. I know that the image of "Paris" conjures up something in people that most often makes them smile, and it does for me, too. But for me, this time here isn't a time to holiday, shop or sight-see, it's not anything but a true getaway. I realize now that I had to get away from everything I know and all whom I hold dear to create the space I need to work on myself. And though I can season my days with visits to internationally recognizable locations, I am here to look inward.

Wherever you go, there you are.

Good fortune smiles upon me in many ways. About 15 months ago that smile came from my then-colleague John, who put me in touch with friends of his who live here. I had the pleasure of meeting one of them yesterday, Mike, and enjoying lunch and conversation at a sunshine-filled sidewalk cafe, loosely flanked by Notre Dame and St. Michel. Mike and I talked about many things, and he made a great point. When I told him about the circumstances that brought me here, atypical reasons for visiting Paris, he remarked that this city is and has been a source of inspiration for many. (The word is one I love for its etymology "to breathe into.") And so I too am looking to draw on this Parisian resource. Regardless of the forecast, every day may not be sunny, but I hope it will be "windy."

So today, watching all those runners, I am reminded that my journey is not a sprint but a marathon. At times, I will have hills to climb, and at other times I will have the wind at my back. And no matter my pace, I know that many of you will be cheering me on. And for that, you have my deepest gratitude.

More to come...

April in Paris...

This year, it's unseasonably warm. According to locals, it should be in the 50s and rainy, but instead it's in the 70s and warm. This is from Le Jardin des Plantes in the 5th, home to the zoo and the natural history museum. What a day! Capped with a 15 minute wait on Ile St Louis for Bertillon gelato (thanks Moll!), pistachio and dark chocolate. And yes, it was well worth the wait.

Tomorrow is the Paris Marathon so I hope to catch the runners as they go by right down my street. Ok time to watch the cars go by! A bientot!

No Trunk? No Problem.

So I thought I had to creative when transporting items!! Taken with zoom on phone, so pardon the quality.

More to come...

Sunshine on My Shoulders

Spectacular light on and in Notre Dame. Spent the day in Le Jardin de Luxembourg, basking in sunshine and people watching. The 5/6th Arr are really wonderful for that!!

More to come...

Today's Snapshot: what's on the calendar

More to come...

In case you were wondering...

Yes, I do this everyday. Today it was at Place des Vosges (former home to Victor Hugo) and in between visits with college friend Ashley.

More to come...

Mon Dieu! C'est un cheval!! Supercool, non?

I am not the foodie that my friends are. But I had to take a photo of the signature salad at this nearby cafe, Au Petit Fer a Cheval. The meal, the glass of chardonnay, and the after-dinner espresso was the end to a pretty great day, and dare I say a well deserved award after 5+ hours of walking. Over coffee, while watching the world go by, I knew I had a grin that wouldn't quit. There were three young women who sat next to me, and one kept looking over in my direction. "Does she know something? Does she see something I don't?" I thought she might be thinking. I think seeing someone who is sitting alone smiling is probably a rarity here.

I'll be the first to tell you that the whole week hasn't been like today. Aside from battling jet lag, I probably have been battling a few other things that I could not allow to come to the surface until now, until I was able to be far from loved ones, from responsibility, far from my own expectations as how I ought to behave. Other than a couple of long weekends here and there, this is my first trip traveling alone, and it's a learning experience. There are parts that I anticipated feeling, and there are parts I hadn't (though I had anticipated the unease). I have been taught that the only way out of something is to work through it. And so while I am here, I hope to surround myself with the inherent beauty of Paris, and perhaps channel some of the latent energy that some of its great thinkers and writers have left behind, to help fuel my journey.

Many things came together today to make it a splendid day. First is the 1.5L of water I had last night--never underestimate the power of staying hydrated. Second, the sun was out. Third, I visited the Musee d'Arts et Metiers. This museum is dedicated to how things work. It's divided into these exhibits, in this order: Scientific Instruments, Materials, Construction, Communication, Energy, Mechanics, and Transportation. I have an interest in how things work; I like to tinker. At one point in my life, I entertained becoming an engineer, and in wandering through the museum, I wondered what could have been if I had. I spent a disproportionately long amount of time in the first section. I was connected to it in a way that I rarely am in museums. In moving through the other exhibits, I realized what my connection to it was. The instruments on display were examples of man's first attempts at understanding the world and stars around him and to measure his place within it. Some of you may have heard me say that I am not sure why I was so compelled to come here, and after today's visit, where I literally had a moment of "oooooooooooooh" with myself, it is to find my place. Where do I fit in this world? What constitutes my world? What do I not see that might be out there? How can I see it? What aids are required, and can I create them? (As I write these questions, I can sense the return of the grin I had at dinner!)

After a brief interlude with a docent, I took off for Canal St. Martin. I reached it from the south end, chose the west side so I could admire the sunlight falling on the buildings to the east, and began my stroll northward. This is a working canal, but I only saw one boat move through it today. It was very peaceful. I stopped at a cafe--right at the dogleg of the canal--and wrote. People of all kinds walked by--families, businessmen, travelers toting luggage on wheels. There was one man, who had his mostly-white hair pulled back in a ponytail, his shaggy gray mustache covering his mouth, but not his stubble nor his deep brown eyes framed by his monstrous eyebrows. He was sporting a blue shirt, blue jeans, a blue jeans vest, and was holding...wait for it...a blue jeans jacket. This man was in stark contrast to the tall, slim, stylish, young black man I saw yesterday. He was well groomed, dressed in a black leather jacket with shoes and bag to match, while everything else was by Burberry, cap, scarf, and slacks in the signature plaid. There is just about everything inbetween, too. My preference leans toward the man who has a trimmed beard, longer hair and a strong chin. However, I am not sure if I'll find one who speaks in a register lower than mine.

The demographic I enjoy watching the most, however, is the timeless Parisian femme. The one who is north of 50, who does not put on makeup but rather "applies" it, who is properly coiffed, who wears a silk scarf, and whose style can only be described as classic. Younger women, though attractive in their own right, do not have this je ne sais quoi that only age can provide. In time though, they too will join the breed who, even standing at 5'2", can still look down on you. And does.

Voila... I am still in disbelief that I am here. It's a crazy feeling to be so anonymous in a city of 11,000,000 people (which slightly exceeds the population of all of Greece) trying, vying, and wanting to find my own little place within it. I shall continue to walk through this city, watching, wondering and of course grinning.

More to come...